As footwear designers and developers, we are constantly challenged to bring new, innovative products to market. This challenge is fuelled by various industry pressures, consumer expectations, marketing demands and ever-increasing sustainability concerns. But it is worth asking whether we regularly need new, supposedly innovative products and processes, and when a product or process can be considered truly innovative.

If we examine the definition of innovation, it generally refers to "new ideas" or "inventions" that have been successfully introduced to the market and have demonstrated their usefulness in a specific field. In our industry, this means that a product or process is considered innovative if it does not simply replace an existing material or process, but also improves it. Improvement in this context means that a product or process is manufactured or carried out in a way that is more environmentally and/or socially sustainable. An improvement could include, among others, reducing the carbon footprint, using renewable resources, ensuring fair labour practices or improving the overall lifecycle of the product. So true innovation in footwear design and development is not just about creating something new and exciting, it is about moving towards more sustainable and ethical practices that benefit both society and the environment.

In the footwear industry, we often come across (so-called) innovations. The true value and effectiveness of these innovations often only become apparent over time. Our aim at PERFORMANCE DAYS is to identify the real innovations and showcase them at our shows. As a manufacturer of regenerative leather, I pay particular attention to advances in leather production or the development of leather alternatives. From my point of view, trying to replace leather seems unnecessary because leather has excellent natural properties. What is really important is to ensure that production processes are both environmentally and socially responsible.

So, would it be innovative to replace an inherently excellent material, or would it not be wiser to invest in and comprehensively improve the conditions under which leather is produced? In short, shouldn't our focus be on making the production of already excellent materials better, rather than looking for new ones that we merely label as “innovative”? This brings up other questions: What does a shoe really need? What can natural materials, which we have used for centuries or even millennia, provide? Why is it not considered innovative to return to the core functions of a shoe and utilize only what nature offers us?

However, innovation in footwear can encompass a wide range of developments. New materials, such as recycled fabrics and high-performance compounds, make shoes lighter and more durable. The integration of technology is enabling smart shoes that can track steps or analyse running technique. The use of 3D printing opens up possibilities for custom designs and personalised fits. Advances in design not only enhance aesthetics, but also improve ergonomics and comfort, for example through specialised cushioning systems. The construction of a shoe also plays a key role, with single material footwear that can be fully recyclable. All these innovations are aimed at optimising performance and minimising the environmental footprint.

Speaking of footprints, the amount of microplastics and other pollutants generated by sole abrasion is significant. In recent years, a number of products have emerged to address this and other challenges, such as the recyclability or biodegradability of soles to prevent microplastic pollution during use. One interesting example is Balena, a materials science company dedicated to the development of sustainable thermoplastic materials. Their BioCir® materials functions like traditional plastics but are plastic-free, biodegradable and compostable, breaking down into harmless substances that improve soil health without leaving behind microplastics or toxic residues, minimising environmental impact. Earlier this year, in collaboration with Vivobarefoot, Balena launched a shoe made entirely from a mono-material that is 3D printed and fully compostable.  And since spring, Balena has been working with ForEver, a well-known sole manufacturer in Portugal. Together they are producing soles that are now available on the market.

This example is a powerful illustration of how true innovation can improve both the environmental and social aspects of production. By addressing these two critical dimensions - environmental sustainability and social responsibility - we are building a solid foundation for our business. Innovations such as these not only reduce environmental impact and promote fair labour practices, but also create a sustainable business model that is in line with the values of our society. It is through such comprehensive and conscientious approaches that we can foster a more sustainable future and drive meaningful, lasting change in the industry.

Learn more about Nina Conrad & the Footwear Area at PERFORMANCE DAYS here!