With the new Bodywear Collective, PERFORMANCE DAYS is finally expanding its offerings to include the bodywear sector – a logical step following the integration of footwear. The importance of this topic today and in the future, and especially the current dynamics within this category, are explained by co-initiator of the new Bodywear Collective, designer and founder of London Contour Experts, Nichole de Carle, in our Behind the Seams-interview.

How important is the topic of bodywear in relation to functional fabrics - what has changed in this area in recent years?
The significance of bodywear in relation to functional fabrics has grown considerably in recent years due to evolving consumer demands and advancements in fabric technology. Previously, bodywear and functional fabrics were strictly categorised, but now versatile fabrics allow products initially designed for specific uses, such as underwear, to be applied across multiple categories.
A notable example is the development of moisture-wicking and antimicrobial sportswear by brands like Lululemon. These fabrics, originally intended for athletic wear to enhance performance and comfort, are now integrated into everyday clothing for wellness in motion. Lululemon’s ABC Pants, for instance, utilise these advanced fabrics to offer both moisture management and stretch, making them suitable for both casual and professional environments, adapting to the wearer's needs throughout the day.
This shift is driven by consumers who seek functionality and style in their daily wear. The evolution of fabric technology has led to higher expectations for comfort and practicality, influencing how products are designed and used. As a result, the supply chain has had to adapt, enabling more mindful choices in wardrobe essentials and meeting the growing demand for multifunctional, high-performance bodywear.  

Underwear is no longer considered just as a necessity in many places. It is evoloving through fashionable loungewear and modern cuts into sought-after lifestyle collections. How do you see this development?
The development of underwear into sought-after lifestyle collections reflects the evolving needs and desires of modern consumers. Today’s consumer, no matter their gender identity, seeks more from their undergarments than mere necessity. They want versatility and functionality that span various aspects of their lives.
Firstly, there's a strong desire for products that make them feel attractive and confident. Comfort is also paramount; consumers want underwear that provides ease of wear throughout the day. Durability is another significant factor—underwear that retains its quality after multiple washes and requires less frequent laundering is highly valued and more sustainable which is a key concern of modern consumers.
Travel-friendly underwear is another emerging trend we're seeing. Today's consumers look for pieces that are lightweight and easy to pack, keeping their travel wardrobe minimal yet functional. The influence of post-COVID lifestyles has further driven the demand for hybrid garments. These include versatile pieces that transition seamlessly from home to office to travel, reflecting the shift towards more flexible work and lifestyle patterns.
Moreover, the focus is on features such as crease resistance and odour control, sometimes enhanced with technologies such as peppermint infusions for added freshness. The trend towards loungewear that can double as casual outerwear is also gaining traction. Collections designed for both lounging at home and quick errands—referred to as 'two-mile wear'—highlight this dual functionality.

The  trade fair will include this category in its program for the first time in october - do you think this was long overdue?
Absolutely, including bodywear in the trade fair program is long overdue. Having spoken with various stakeholders in the supply chain, it's evident that bodywear has been evolving rapidly but has remained absent at trade shows. Introducing this category creates a new platform for activewear, fashion, and intimate brands to showcase their innovations, creating more cross-over opportunities for creativity and technology-driven innovation. This inclusion will spotlight the latest advancements in bodywear, particularly those focused on performance, which has become a critical aspect of modern apparel. The Bodywear Collective aims to foster collaboration and inspire further innovation in bodywear design, addressing both functionality and fashion. Ultimately, this addition will enrich the trade fair experience for all, benefiting brands and consumers alike by highlighting the importance of bodywear in contemporary fashion and lifestyle.

In addition to shapewear, underwear, swimwear, dancewear, sports bras & leggings and swimwear, there will be a dedicated seamless section. What impact does seamless have on the fashion industry and future developments in bodywear?
The seamless trend is making significant strides in the fashion industry, particularly in bodywear. Seamless technology offers unique advantages, such as improved fit, comfort, and aesthetic appeal, which are increasingly important to modern consumers.
Seamless construction involves advanced machinery and innovative fibre blends to create garments without traditional seams. This process, often referred to as seamless mapping, allows for precise engineering of garments to enhance compression and support, resulting in a custom fit that shapes and contours the body.
Brands like Nextil are at the forefront of seamless technology, demonstrating its potential beyond just intimate and bodywear. Their approach integrates seamless construction into outerwear, creating versatile hybrid garments that combine functionality with style. This innovation paves the way for future developments in bodywear, where seamless technology can be used to create multi-purpose clothing that transitions smoothly from activewear to casual wear.
The evolution of seamless technology relies heavily on access to advanced machinery and the development of specialised fibre blends, what we like to term "fibre cocktails." These materials are engineered to provide varying levels of compression and support, tailored to different parts of the body. This results in garments that not only fit better but also enhance performance and comfort. The impact of the seamless trend on the fashion industry is profound, driving innovations in bodywear and beyond. By investing in seamless technology, brands can create garments that meet the evolving demands of consumers for fit, function, and fashion. This trend is likely to continue shaping the future of apparel, offering new possibilities for both designers and wearers.

How sustainable is the production of seamless bodywear compared to traditional bodywear?
The production of seamless bodywear is generally more sustainable compared to traditional methods. One of the key factors contributing to this sustainability is the implementation of zero-waste techniques. Unlike conventional garment production, which often results in significant fabric waste during the cutting and sewing processes, seamless technology knits garments to shape, minimising material waste from the outset. The use of bio yarns in seamless bodywear can enhance its environmental friendliness. These biodegradable fibres break down naturally at the end of their lifecycle, reducing the long-term environmental impact. This contrasts with traditional bodywear, which often relies on synthetic materials that can take years to decompose.
Another sustainability advantage of seamless bodywear is its reduced need for elastics. Seamless garments achieve compression and fit through the tightness of the knit, eliminating the need for additional elastic materials. This not only simplifies the recycling process but also reduces the reliance on synthetic elastics, which can be challenging to recycle.
Seamless bodywear offers a more sustainable alternative to traditional bodywear production. By reducing material waste, utilising biodegradable yarns, and eliminating the need for elastics, seamless technology supports more eco-friendly manufacturing practices. This makes seamless bodywear an appealing choice for environmentally conscious consumers and brands looking to reduce their environmental footprint.

What materials are commonly used in seamless bodywear and why?
Seamless bodywear utilises a variety of advanced materials to achieve specific results in terms of comfort, fit, durability, and sustainability. For instance, Lyohemp and hemp fibres are commonly used due to their strength, durability, and natural resistance to mould and UV light. These fibres are highly breathable and offer excellent moisture-wicking properties, making them ideal for both active and everyday wear. When combined with cellulose-based fibres like Lyohemp, they enhance the sustainability of the garment, as both fibres are biodegradable and eco-friendly.
Another significant material is recyclable marine plastic yarn, such as Inresst, which is made from 100% recyclable plastics retrieved from the ocean. This fibre helps reduce ocean pollution and promotes a circular economy. It provides high durability and resilience, essential for performance-oriented bodywear. Companies like LYCRA are leading in developing these fibres, offering an eco-friendly alternative to traditional synthetics without compromising performance.
Hemp Forex is another material that offers similar environmental benefits to Lyohemp. Known for its strength, breathability, and natural antibacterial properties it is well-suited for bodywear. Collaborations with brands like Impetus further enhance the use of sustainable fibres in seamless bodywear, contributing to both comfort and ecological benefits.
Naia, produced by Eastman, is made from sustainably sourced wood pulp. It provides a soft, silky feel with excellent moisture management and quick-drying capabilities. Additionally, Naia is fully biodegradable. The collaboration with organisations such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SLA) highlights Naia’s role in creating eco-friendly and luxurious seamless bodywear.
Lenzing fibres, including TENCEL™ and MODAL™, are also widely used in seamless bodywear. These fibres are known for their softness, strength, and sustainability. Derived from renewable wood sources, they are biodegradable. Partnerships with companies like Nextil and Green Dyes contribute to the development of seamless bodywear that is not only comfortable and high-performing but also sustainable.
Adding to the innovation in seamless bodywear, LYCRA® fibre, renowned for its exceptional elasticity and recovery, is frequently incorporated to provide a snug yet flexible fit, enhancing both comfort and movement. LYCRA® T400® fibre, in particular, is celebrated for its versatility and eco-friendly options, providing a sustainable choice without compromising on performance. Additionally, Hyosung’s creora® spandex offers excellent stretch and durability, ideal for bodywear that requires resilience and comfort.
These diverse fibres are mixed to create what can be termed a "fibre cocktail," combining the unique properties of each to achieve the desired outcomes in seamless bodywear. This concept will be showcased in the fibre-to-finish product innovation zone at the upcoming October fair, demonstrating how different fibres can be blended to produce innovative and sustainable garments.
Seamless bodywear leverages an array of advanced fibres to enhance performance, comfort, and sustainability. By carefully selecting and combining these materials, manufacturers can create garments that meet the high demands of modern consumers while also contributing to environmental sustainability.